Aal Dye

Aal dye, a natural deep red pigment obtained from the roots of the aal tree (Morinda citrifolia), is primarily utilised by the Panika community in Bastar, Chhattisgarh, and Kotpad, Odisha. This dye colours textiles worn by local groups like Panika, Gond, Muria, and Maria. Historical evidence suggests that aal dye was widely employed in the past and even traded to the Mediterranean region. Textile fragments dyed with aal dye, dating back to the first millennium BCE, have been found along the Red Sea's shores. However, in recent times, textiles dyed with this pigment have not been sold on the general market.

 

The traditional process of making aal dye involves collecting roots from young aal trees, typically between three and four years old, as older roots lose their colour. The roots are dried, ground into powder, and added to boiling water to create a dyebath. Prior to dyeing, yarns are prepared by rinsing, dipping in water mixed with castor oil, covering in liquefied cow dung, and drying. Wood ash mixed with water is used to treat the yarns, which are then dipped and wrung repeatedly until they're ready for dyeing. The alumina from the ash helps achieve a deep red hue during the dyeing process. After being dried, the yarns are added to the dyebath, stirred as the water evaporates, and dyed for multiple cycles. Iron sulphate is added for a deep brown colour if desired. The resulting colour is durable against washing, light, and heat.

 

Roots are sourced and sold to the Panika community by the Parja, Gadva, and Muria communities. The dyeing process involves women dyeing cotton yarn, which men weave into traditional clothing. Aal-dyed yarns are used for men's headcloths and women's sarees, offering a cooling effect that benefits those working under the sun.

 

Although aal dye is still in use, its production has decreased due to the availability of synthetic dyes and finished cotton fabric. The Kotpad Weavers Cooperative Society advocates for government support for dyers and weavers and works to establish a contemporary market for these products.