The technique of imprinting designs onto fabric using wooden blocks soaked in dye is recognized as woodblock printing.

 

The advantage of integrating motifs and intricate patterns onto distinct blocks to craft distinctive designs rendered the resulting textiles both economical and captivating. Among the well-known block printing traditions are Ajrakh, Bagh, Bagru, Sanganeri, Saudagiri, Mata ni pachedi, Namavali, and Balotra. Additionally, lesser-known practices like those of the Chhimba community in Punjab and the more recent methods in Serampore, West Bengal, contribute to the diverse landscape of block printing.

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The quality of block-printed textiles relies on factors like block carving, dye richness, and mordant effectiveness. While woodblocks from woods like sheesham, Sagwan, and Rohida are favoured for their texture and ease of carving, they are preferred over metal and terracotta blocks. Gujarat and Rajasthan are known for their traditional woodblock carving, with Pethapur in Gujarat and Jaipur in Rajasthan being primary centres.

 

Each block-printed motif might involve multiple blocks for distinct elements, requiring careful coordination between block makers and printers. Mordants are often added to the dye to enhance adhesion to the fabric, as many natural dyes struggle to stick. This technique has transformed with the use of chemical dyes, giving rise to direct and discharge printing methods.

 

Block printing is often combined with other techniques like resist-dyeing, resulting in intricate designs. Different regions in India have distinct block printing styles influenced by their materials, tools, cultural factors, and communities. These textiles historically signified wearer identity and status but have evolved due to urbanisation and mass production.

 

Despite changes, traditional block printing in India has maintained its authenticity, aesthetics, and techniques. Recent years have seen a resurgence of interest in block-printed fabrics in both Indian and international markets, driving efforts to preserve and revitalise indigenous traditions. Museums like the Sanskriti Museum of Indian Textiles, Calico Museum, and the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing hold valuable collections of these textiles.