Bagru Printing
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 27, 2023
- 1 min read
Bagru printing is a traditional textile block printing technique known for its repeated floral buti motifs arranged in diverse patterns. These motifs, including gainda, gulab, badaam, kamal, and bel, vary in size and combinations throughout the fabric. Smaller jaali patterns, also floral, are another design feature. Natural dyes are central to Bagru prints, with common colours like black (from iron filings, jaggery, and gum), red (madder and alum), and grey, khaki, and brown (from kashish). Indigo, green, and yellow are also used.
Originating in Rajasthan, the technique is practised by the Chippa community in Bagru. The city's proximity to the Sanjariya river, clay-rich soil, and warm climate are ideal for the process. Bagru printing involves washing, soaking, treating with a mixture of castor oil, dung, and soda ash, and further processing with harda paste for colour enhancement. Wooden blocks are used for printing, including both direct printing and dabu printing stages, resulting in intricate designs.
Traditionally used for local garments like ghagras, odhnis, and sarees, Bagru prints were also seen on household items such as bedspreads and cushion covers. Different motifs and colour combinations were crafted for various communities, allowing identification based on clothing patterns. Over time, Bagru prints have adapted to contemporary markets, incorporating diverse fabrics beyond cotton and employing methods like screen-printing. Presently, around fifty to sixty workshops in Bagru involve over five thousand workers, both men and women, and some workshops have adopted chemical dyes and screen-printing for efficiency.