Natural Dyeing
Indian dyes were coveted not only for their vibrancy and their use in inventive textiles but also because of the carefully calibrated traditional dyeing processes, which often involved the application of mordants that fixed the colour to the fabric, making them uniquely durable.
The legacy of Indian textile dyes can be traced back an impressive four thousand years. The pinnacle of commercial activity centred around natural dyes flourished during the mediaeval and early colonial periods, particularly manifested in the exquisite block-printed and kalamkari textiles, before they were largely supplanted by European synthetic dyes. The initial exploration of natural pigments and dyes within India sparked a diverse array of spiritual and artistic modes of communication. Insights into the importance of prominent dyes in Indian textiles are gleaned from sources encompassing religious and philosophical texts, poetry, travel narratives, and even trade guides.
The allure of Indian dyes extended beyond their vividness and their incorporation into innovative textiles. It also stemmed from the closely guarded traditional dyeing techniques, which often entailed the use of mineral salts or mordants to fix the colours onto the fabric, rendering the hues exceptionally enduring. Varieties of blue hailing from indigo, black derived from haritaki (black myrobalan) and khair (acacia bark), and an array of reds, lilac, and burgundy originating from manjistha (madder), chay root, aal (Indian mulberry), and lac insects exhibited remarkable longevity as dyes. This is precisely why these shades persist on fabrics even millennia later. Yellow dyes primarily stem from haldi (turmeric root), with kusumba (safflower), palash (Parrot tree) flowers, and pomegranate rind also contributing to a lesser extent.
History of colours
During ancient times, fabric dyes were exclusively derived from natural sources such as plants, animal extracts, and minerals. The primary dyes consisted of mineral pigments and plant extracts obtained from various sources such as flowers, woods, nuts, seeds, berries, barks, and roots. Additionally, certain fungi, lichens, insects, and shellfish were also used for dyeing.
For centuries, fabrics have been coloured using locally available materials. In India, an impressive array of around four hundred and fifty plants could be used for producing dyes. Even at historic sites like Mohenjo-Daro, a 5000-year-old fragment of cloth dyed with madder was unearthed.
Interestingly, India has an illustrious history of being a major supplier of natural dyes to the global market in ancient times. Indications of dye trade might have surfaced during this era as well, evident in the traces of indigo discovered in Egyptian tombs and later records detailing exchanges with the Mediterranean region. Ancient civilizations like Greece, Egypt, and the Phoenicians relied on Indian dyes. Indigo, yellow, red, and purple were some of the most extensively produced colours in India, attracting significant overseas demand.
Mordanting Process
Except for Indigo dyeing, the initiation of all natural dyeing entails the mordanting of the fibres, yarns, or fabrics slated for dyeing. A mordant serves as a crucial dye fixative, essentially a substance employed to affix dyes onto the fabric. This is achieved by creating a complex with the dye molecules, effectively anchoring the colour onto the fabric. Typically, mordanting occurs prior to dyeing; however, in certain instances, it can also take place post-dyeing to alter or reinforce the dye's colour. The most prevalent pre-dyeing mordant is alum. Additionally, iron and myrobolan are also commonly used mordants.
All measurements are proportionate to the yarn's weight. For the mordanting procedure, the mordant employed constitutes 2-3% of the yarn's weight intended for dyeing. Similarly, the quantity of water utilised for dissolution is also 2-3% of the yarn's weight.
The Decline in the Utilisation of Indian Natural Dyes
Indigo was initially mentioned by Marco Polo, marking his observations as the first from a traveller to India. The opening of a sea trade route to India through Vasco de Gama's journey in the 15th century led to the adoption of block printed textiles from Gujarat and Deccan by Europeans for clothing and household fabrics.
However, the 19th century brought significant shifts. Amid widespread farmer struggles and protests against the enforced cultivation of indigo plantations by the East India Company, a pivotal development occurred: the discovery of chemical dyes in England. India had once enjoyed near-exclusive control over dyed and printed textile markets. This alteration, however, led to severe repercussions for the Indian textile industry, which was already grappling with the competition posed by the mechanised looms of England.
The Present State of Indian Natural Dyes
The once abundant natural dyes that were painstakingly extracted from plants and flora in ancient India, adorning handcrafted fabrics along the sunny riverbanks, have now become a rarity. Instead, we are faced with a growing prevalence of chemical dyes that pollute our rivers with harmful waste.
The adoption of synthetic dyes can be attributed to various factors. These dyes can be easily manufactured in large quantities within a laboratory setting, demanding fewer resources such as land, labour, and mordants. This makes their production cheaper and application more straightforward. Additionally, some natural dye colours tend to fade faster, and their sources may not remain consistently available throughout the textile production process.
Resurgence of Natural Indian Dyes
A growing consciousness of the environmental consequences linked to synthetic dyes has led both producers and enthusiasts of coloured textiles and garments to gradually re-explore the advantages and aesthetic value of natural dyes. Synthetic dyes necessitate the utilisation of salts and organic compounds that resist biodegradation, resulting in excessive water consumption. This process renders a significant portion of water undrinkable, forming a hazardous amalgamation of dye, alkalis, chemicals, salts, heavy metals, and harmful substances.
Numerous businesses involved in textile production, ready-to-wear clothing, and accessories are now venturing into the realm of natural dyes for their goods. This shift appeals to consumers who aspire to minimise their contribution to environmental pollution, as well as fashion-conscious individuals seeking the raw and earthy allure of natural dyes with their inherent irregularities. Additionally, this movement has revitalised traditional dyeing techniques, thereby reviving the skilled artisans of dyeing. Another positive outcome is the growing global demand for natural dyes, riding on the wave of sustainable fashion. This trend is also beneficial for farmers, who can benefit from cultivating crops of dye-yielding plants.
The au natural trend is gaining momentum, and it is hoped that it will evolve from a passing fad into a full-fledged movement. Considering its multiple benefits for all stakeholders involved, this transformation seems promising.
Sources:
https://garlandmag.com/loop/indias-natural-dyes/
https://mapacademy.io/cluster/understanding-south-asias-most-recognisable-dyes/
https://www.ecoideaz.com/expert-corner/growing-popularity-natural-dyes-india
https://www.pure-elegance.com/blogs/arts-culture/natural-dyes
https://artsandculture.google.com/story/colors-of-the-earth-avani-society/yQWhQg4HIebaKg?hl=en
