Avani : Kumaon Community
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 27, 2023
- 2 min read
Similar to various other artistic and craft traditions, the origins of natural dyeing in India can be traced back to ancient eras. Artisans across the subcontinent were well-versed in the colour-giving attributes of diverse dye plants. In the Kumaon region, the Bhotiya community particularly played a significant role in practising and preserving this craft, even though its prevalence waned over time, nearly leading them to abandon it.
Prominent plant sources for dyeing in Kumaon encompassed Walnut, Kilmora roots, Kappahl tree bark, and Tatri. However, some of their practices were detrimental to the environment. In response, Avani undertook the task of researching alternative plant sources that would not only be eco-friendly but also contribute to environmental rejuvenation.
Avani initiated its textile project in 1997 to uplift the livelihoods of impoverished families, particularly traditional artisans. This region had a history of local communities engaging in traditional crafts like hand spinning, hand weaving, and natural dyeing. Avani's textile program aimed to modernise these skills into contemporary products, offering sustainable incomes and revitalising traditional craftsmanship.
Avani's work with natural dyes involved extensive experimentation using local plant materials to extract dyes. An accidental discovery was made when Eupatorium, a highly invasive species causing forest destruction, was found to yield green shades when processed. Avani incentivized local collection of Eupatorium, creating income opportunities and conserving biodiversity.
To localise the raw material supply chain, Avani initiated the Himalayan Indigo Project in 2010, cultivating Indigofera Tinctoria locally and introducing altitude-specific varieties. Their dyeing team improved indigo extraction, leading to higher pigment production.
The textile and natural dye program revitalised traditional skills and had environmental benefits like wasteland reclamation, forest regeneration, and resource preservation. Avani's use of local resources for dyes protected plant species, restored soil health, and prevented water pollution compared to synthetic dyes. Over 50 plant species were experimented with, creating a palette of 30 colours for non-toxic products.
Avani's textile work involves collaboration with local communities, offering fair wages and empowering women. They focus on skilling vulnerable women and girls in activities like spinning, knitting, weaving, and dye collection. Artisans have formed a self-reliant cooperative called Earthcraft.