Bagh printing
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 27, 2023
- 2 min read
Bagh printing, a traditional block printing method using natural dyes, has been practised by Khatris in the town of Bagh in Madhya Pradesh. These prints are known for their unique colour palette of black, red, and white, as well as intricate naturalistic and geometric motifs. Unlike ajrakh, another Khatri-exclusive tradition, Bagh printing directly applies colours onto the undyed fabric and is done on one side only.
Khatris migrated from Sind to Gujarat, Rajasthan, and eventually Madhya Pradesh. Settling in Bagh, they developed a printing technique that utilised local resources and catered to Adivasi and Rajput communities. Bagh printing flourished with improved black and red colours (from iron rust and alum), vegetable dyes, and regional influences.
Traditional Bagh designs are carved onto wooden blocks in Gujarat's Pethapur. Designs include chameli, maithir, kairi, and jurvaria, set in nariyal, leheriya, tikona, and gehwar patterns. The process involves soaking, treating, drying, and printing the fabric with attention to detail. Separate stages are used for red and black designs, drying in between. Red dyes come from Aal with alum as a mordant, while black dyes combine iron filings and jaggery. Tamarind seed paste acts as a binding agent.
The fabric is then washed, beaten, and dried by the river. It's boiled with alizarin and local dhawda flowers to deepen reds and fix the dye. Prominent Khatri families like Ismail Suleiman Khatri and Hajjani Jetun Bi played a crucial role in preserving and modernising Bagh printing. Their efforts continue through their sons and the next generation, who expand the craft's reach, train non-Khatri artisans, and experiment with new materials.
In 2008, Bagh prints received Geographical Indication (GI) status from the Indian Government for their specific production and characteristics, recognizing their cultural and regional significance.