Machilipatnam Block Printing
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 27, 2023
- 2 min read
A variant of kalamkari from southern India, referred to as Machilipatnam block prints, involves designs being printed using blocks rather than drawn with a pen (kalam). These prints are currently exclusive to the town of Pedana, near Machilipatnam in Andhra Pradesh. This trade textile has been known by different names: chintz by the English, sitz by the Dutch, and pintado by the Portuguese. Locally, it is also referred to as addakam (dyeing) and Pedana kalamkari. The traditional carving of blocks is done using teakwood. Dyes are sourced from minerals, leaves, flowers, and local tree barks. The distinctive red hue in kalamkari is created from alum and tamarind seed powder, while black comes from iron ore, violet from indigo, and shades of yellow (like mustard and lemon) from various blends of turmeric and harad (myrobalan).
To prepare the fabric, it is soaked in water for three days to remove starch. It is then treated with buffalo's milk and harad, followed by rinsing and drying for the initial printing phase. Carved block edges are pressed onto the cloth, starting with outlines and progressing to filling in colours. For polychromatic designs, red and black portions are printed first, followed by rinsing and drying for a second printing round. After printing, the fabric undergoes boiling in a dye bath, leading to diverse colour combinations. Rinsing, drying, and a subsequent round of printing with natural dyes are repeated.
Unlike hand-painted kalamkari, where the craft was passed down in smaller setups, Machilipatnam printing happens in commercial workshops called karkhanas. These workshops handle block making, washing, and printing simultaneously. The motifs in Machilipatnam block printed fabric are influenced by Persian, Arab, and European traders, due to the city's history as a trading hub. Patterns include geometric formations, floral designs, twining creepers, animal figures, and ornamental arches.
During British rule, Machilipatnam block printing produced textiles for clothing and furnishing. While locally it was used for prayer mats, tents, and canopies, the European market employed it for clothing and bedspreads known as palampores. Currently, the craft faces competition from mechanical and digital printing techniques. A notable artisan, Pitchuka Srinivas, established a kalamkari museum in the town. Kalamkari has expanded into home linens, garments, and souvenirs, being popular in the West and exported regularly. Pedana kalamkari received a Geographical Indications (GI) tag in 2013.