Balotra printing
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 27, 2023
- 1 min read
The block printing technique known as Balotra printing takes its name from the city in Rajasthan's Barmer district where it originated. Balotra printed fabrics are distinct for their vertically arranged floral and geometric butis in earthy reds, yellows, and creams over an indigo or dark green base. Unlike other traditions, Balotra prints lack intricate colour nuances due to the absence of a black outline. A unique aspect of Balotra printing is its application on both sides of the cloth.
Similar to other block printing traditions in Rajasthan, like Bagru and Sanganer, Balotra's karigars belong to the Chhipa community. The tradition has been practised here for years, with influences from both immigrant and native Chhipas and Khatris. The fabric, usually cotton, goes through washing, saaj treatment, harda soaking, and drying before designs are transferred using wooden blocks in stages of direct printing and dabu printing.
Dabu printing is more complex and serves to protect base colours from dye baths. The fabric undergoes multiple rounds of dabu printing and dyeing. Direct printing creates colours like black, red, grey, khaki, brown, indigo-blue, green, and marigold yellow, all achieved with natural dyes.
Balotra printed fabric traditionally adorned women's attire like skirts, blouses, and draped cloths from various communities. The cloth also signified social markers, denoting ethnicity, religion, socio-economic status, occupation, and marital status. However, traditional Balotra printing has dwindled due to factors like the shift to chemical dyes, polyester fabric, and screen-printing methods. A few Chippa karigars continue using traditional methods to create authentic Balotra prints, adapting designs for various household textiles.