Andhra Pradesh - Venkatagiri Weave
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 2 min read
Originating from the historic town of Venkatagiri, the Venkatagiri saris stand as some of South India's softest and most enduring saris. These six-yard wonders boast exclusive designs that are unparalleled in the realm of Indian saris. Their versatility allows them to be gracefully draped for various occasions, appealing across all climates, particularly in humid Indian summers. Their lightweight and gentle texture make them a sought-after choice internationally.
Hand-woven with a Jamdani style pattern, Venkatagiri sarees showcase a distinctive large Jamdani motif in the pallu, often depicting a peacock, parrot, swan, or mango leaf. Renowned for their fine craftsmanship, these saris were preferred by Andhra royalty. The history of these saris dates back to the early 1700s, originating in the small artisan cluster of Venkatagiri, then known as Kali-Mili. They were favoured by the Velugoti Dynasty of Nellore, who exclusively patronised the skilled weavers.
Venkatagiri weavers work with pure cotton, pure silk, and blends of both. The saris are known for their intricate weaves, with similar styles found in villages like Sengunthapuram, Variyankaval, Andimadam, and Marudhur. These saris are celebrated for their finesse, elegance in drape, and relative ease of maintenance.
The process begins with dyeing the yarn, followed by washing, drying, and starching to bind the colour. Loaded into pit looms, Venkatagiri's weaving process showcases its fine craftsmanship. The town, housing 40,000 inhabitants, half of whom are weavers, earned recognition under the GI of Goods Act 1999, making Venkatagiri sarees a GI from Andhra Pradesh.
While Venkatagiri sarees have gained global acclaim, the weavers rely on hereditary knowledge passed down through generations, lacking formal training. However, challenges such as waterlogging of pit looms during monsoons and low wages have prompted some traditional weavers to leave the profession, risking the survival of this rich tradition.
Local cooperatives and government efforts are being made to revive the Venkatagiri saree market. Upgraded dyeing methods and local dyeing units are being established to reduce production time and costs, ensuring the continuation and growth of this revered art form.