Assam - Bodo Weaving

The Bodos, belonging to the Bodo Kachari ethnic group, are concentrated mainly in the Assam plains, particularly in districts like Kokrajhar and Goalpara, and also extend to neighbouring districts like Chirang, Baksa, and Udalguri. They share linguistic and cultural ties with the Mechh community of the Western Dooars in West Bengal. Historically, they migrated from a distant land, possibly between the Yangtze and Yellow rivers in China, to the plains of Assam through Tibet, making them one of the original inhabitants of the region.

Weaving is deeply ingrained in Bodo culture, with virtually every household owning a loom. Bodo women are skilled weavers who use cotton as the primary material, and historically, they spun locally grown cotton. Today, they use market-sourced cotton yarns of various colours. Sericulture is also significant, focusing on endi or eri silk.

The central attire for Bodo women is the "dokhona," a woven cotton textile typically 3.25 metres long and 1.4 metres wide. It tightly drapes over the body, covering the breasts and reaching the ankles. Traditional dokhonas come in two styles: one with stripes in hues of orange, red, and green, and the other with intricate linear floral motifs. A recurring motif resembling a crab, known as the "khangkhrai," is also common.

For outdoor activities, women pair the dokhona with a narrow stole called "jomgra," which features delicate motifs of ferns, flowers, and hills. Bright colours like blood red, bottle green, and night blue are popular. However, mass-produced jomgras using synthetic fibres are increasingly common. During the Bodo's bagurumba dance, the jomgra is spread out to resemble a fluttering butterfly.

The Bodo textile heritage reflects their deep-rooted connection to weaving, with dokhonas and jomgras holding cultural and functional significance.

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Source

https://livingwithart.blog/2020/07/31/woven-identity-the-colourful-world-of-the-bodo-textiles/