Goa - Kunbi Weave
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 2 min read
Considered the oldest weave of the region, the Kunbi sari has deep cultural significance among the Kunbi tribe. The name itself, formed from "kun" (family) and "bi" (seed), symbolises familial ties and generational skill. Originally a utilitarian garment, it was favoured by Kunbi women working in rice fields.
Unique to the region, the Kunbi sari is traditionally worn without a pallu or blouse. It is draped loosely around the waist and secured with a front knot on the right shoulder. Typically dyed in red and its shades, the colour comes from the local jafflinchi fala fruit. Crafted using sturdy jute-like fibre called kapad, the six-yard sari is woven on pit looms. The checks in the fabric vary in size across communities, reflecting the sari's cultural influence.
The Kunbi sari's charm lies in its minimalist checked design, often with a shiny border. The red colour signifies Goa's vitality, while the checks symbolise the interconnectedness of nature's creative forces. This auspicious textile is worn to ceremonies and cultural events.
Unfortunately, the sari's original quality has declined due to the influx of unsustainable materials like synthetic fibres. In the 1970s, the introduction of power looms led to outsourcing Kunbi weaving to neighbouring Maharashtra, causing a decline in native weavers.
However, efforts are being made to revive this heritage. Researchers, historians, and designers like Dr. Rohit Phalgaonkar and Vinayak Khedekar are working to rejuvenate the Kunbi sari. Modern versions explore diverse colour palettes like blues, greys, and ivories. Designers like Wendell Rodricks have brought contemporary spins to the traditional design.
Initiatives like Goa Adivasi Parampara and Kai Thari are dedicated to revitalising the Kunbi sari, ensuring that its essence continues to thrive despite the challenges of time.