Gujarat - Mashru Weaving
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 2 min read
Updated: Aug 31, 2023
Mashru, a glossy fabric with bold stripes and vibrant colours, is a warp-faced satin weave textile. It was created centuries ago, reportedly to fulfil the clothing desires of Muslim rulers who were prohibited from wearing silk due to religious beliefs. This fabric, also known as elaicha, allowed them to enjoy the sheen of silk while adhering to their religious restrictions. Mashru is woven with a silk warp and a cotton weft, giving it a unique texture where the cotton touches the skin and silk forms the upper layer.
Apart from being worn by royalty, mashru fabric was used for bolster and cushion covers at royal gatherings, as well as saddle covers. The fabric often featured tie-and-dye patterns within its stripes. It could only be woven in a narrow width due to the need for a dense warp to create the tight satin weave. Many looms in and around Mandavi were dedicated to weaving this fabric, with the Khatris handling dyeing and loom preparation, and Meghwal weavers carrying out the weaving process.
The silk yarn required for weaving was imported from China via sailboats to the port of Mandavi. From the 17th to the 19th century, the woven mashru fabric was exported to various countries in the Middle East, Mediterranean, and Africa, including Persia, Egypt, and Turkey. The fabric had ceremonial uses and was worn by brides in local communities, with special mashru ghaghras featuring embroidered borders.
Over time, the decline of royal support has led to the reduced use of mashru, making it expensive for local communities. The Mamtora Weaving Company in Mandavi remains the sole workshop still producing this fabric. Despite its dwindling practicality, this fabric retains cultural and ceremonial significance. Efforts by organisations like Gamathiwala in Ahmedabad and Khamir, an NGO working with artisans in Kutch, have helped rejuvenate the market for mashru, ensuring the continuation of this traditional craft.