Jammu & Kashmir - Kani Weave
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 2 min read
A Kani shawl, originating from the Kanihama region within the Kashmir valley, is a distinctive type of Kashmir shawl. This traditional handicraft holds a significant historical lineage, dating back to the Mughal era. Crafted from pashmina yarn, the shawls bear the geographical indication granted by the Jammu and Kashmir government, safeguarding their authenticity as products of the Kanihama area.
Kani weaving is an ancient artistic practice rooted in Kanihama, tracing its origins back to 3000 BC. Renowned for their exquisite beauty, these shawls were once cherished possessions of Mughal emperors, Sikh maharajas, and British aristocrats. Notably, the Ain-i-Akbari documents Emperor Akbar's enthusiastic collection of Kani shawls.
The term "Kani" derives from the artisans' place of origin, Kanihama. In the Kashmiri language, "Kani" also signifies a small wooden oblong spool.
Kani Shawls are meticulously handwoven using pashmina on a loom. Instead of conventional shuttles, these shawls employ needles crafted from cane or wood. The intricate designs of the shawls are formed using small wooden sticks known as "kanis." Each kani corresponds to a single knot in the weaving pattern, and the weaver closely follows a design on graph paper to ensure precise replication.
Proficient craftsmen with specialised training are the only ones capable of weaving Kani Shawls with expertise. The artistry and know-how have been transmitted through generations, resulting in a limited number of skilled practitioners—today, only around 2,000 of the original 10,000 kani weavers remain. Artisans skilled in carpet weaving can transition to crafting Kani shawls due to the shared use of colour-coded "Talim" to guide the weaving process. While some differences in techniques and tools exist, the core principle of following the colour-coded Talim remains consistent. Nevertheless, Kani shawl production is a specialised and intricate art form with distinct challenges. Accomplished artisans in this craft produce exceptional and authentic Kani shawls, upholding the tradition's rich heritage.