Karnataka - IIkal weave
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 2 min read
The Ilkal saree, a cherished traditional Indian garment, originates from Karnataka's town of Ilkal. These saris, woven by women weavers, boast a unique weaving technique. The body employs cotton warp, while the border and pallu (end draped over the shoulder) use art silk or pure silk warp. Ilkal's weaving legacy dates back to the 8th century AD, supported by local chieftains and raw materials.
Notably, Ilkal saree weaving is prominent in Kolhar, Ilkal, Kamatgi, and Nidagundi villages in Karnataka's Bijapur district. The distinctive pallu stands out, woven predominantly in red and white. The sarees display shades like dark indigo, purple, red, and green, featuring traditional patterns, including motifs of centipedes, dots, and triangles. The pallu bears a cross-border design in white between the two borders.
The process utilises the pit loom known as "kuni magga," commonly for weaving traditional gomi or chikiparas borders. A notable feature is the fine quality, often enhanced with delicate kasuti embroidery. The pallu holds special significance, especially when worn on the head. Silk is used for special occasions, woven using the interlocking "tope-teni" technique. Ilkal sarees are woven in cotton with art silk, featuring either art silk or mixed art silk and cotton borders and pallus. Variations include pure silk body, border, and pallu combinations.
The craft's continuation has seen a decline, with around 1200 out of 2000 weavers still practising. Coloured yarns are wound onto bobbins or pins for the warp and weft, secured through piecing using "Minusari" knots. In the weaving process, the pallu warp and body warp are looped together. Some craftsmen prefer weaving the pallu first before the body of the saree. Weaving an Ilkal sari takes approximately 7 days, with involvement from female family members.