Khamir
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 27, 2023
- 2 min read
Based in Bhuj, the NGO Khamir is committed to the preservation of cultural, social, and economic ties among various traditional communities in the Kutch district. It actively promotes sustainable cotton textile production and the conservation of agricultural and artisanal livelihoods within Kachchh. Khamir embarked on this endeavour in 2007, collaborating with Satvik, an association of organic farmers in Kachchh, to explore the potential for Kala Cotton production. The organisation plays a pivotal role in supplying a significant portion of the kala cotton yardage present in contemporary collections, priced between Rs. 300-350 per metre, and showcasing patterns such as chevrons, diamonds, checks, and plain weaves.
Recognizing the inherent attributes of Kala Cotton, Khamir initiated research in 2008. The cotton's short staple length posed challenges in spinning and weaving, prompting Khamir and Satvik to consult numerous experts in the development of a yarn conversion process. Convincing local weavers of Kala Cotton's value proved to be an additional hurdle, as weaving it necessitates alterations in loom setup, leading to varying yields and shafts. After years of dedicated experimentation and refining spinning and weaving techniques, Khamir successfully introduced its inaugural Kala Cotton products in 2010.
Image: Khamir
During that period, local varieties were combined with long-staple fibres to bolster yarn strength. By December 2011, Khamir achieved the launch of a pure form of the textile through a solo exhibition titled 'Retelling The Stories of Kutch' at Chinmaya Mission Hall in New Delhi.
In general, the figures remain relatively modest. Among the approximately 4000 kala cotton farmers in Kutch, Khamir engages with 160 farmers within the Makhel region of Adessar – the focal point of Khamir's revival efforts. Out of the approximately 600 remaining weavers, a mere 60 in Adessar are involved with kala cotton, a notable decline from the over 2000 weavers in the mid-1990s. Ghatit Laheru, a senior manager at Khamir, underscores that achieving a broader-scale resurgence of kala cotton demands sustained demand and safeguards against unauthorised imitation through powerloom copying. Moreover, there's a potential threat of substituting organic cotton yarn with cheap non-organic alternatives prevalent in the market.
by Khamir
Designer Himanshu Shani from 11.11 / eleven eleven, who has dedicated several years to working with kala cotton to develop a distinctive textile called khadi denim, has observed that kala cotton possesses exceptional dye absorption capabilities. The process of indigo dyeing, layered repeatedly, results in a significantly richer effect on kala cotton compared to regular cotton. Shani recalls his initial experiments with delight, noting that the first piece of kala cotton khadi denim created at 11.11 was markedly more vibrant in both colour and texture than samples fashioned from conventional cotton. Natural dye played a role, but according to Shani, it was the unique quality of the cotton itself that made the discernible difference.
Presently, the Kala Cotton Initiative serves to promote sustainable cotton textile production in alignment with the local ecosystem. The project endeavours to establish a multi-tiered value chain through collaboration with marginalised communities and the promotion of locally cultivated species. To execute this initiative, Khamir and Satvik have orchestrated a supply chain involving Kala Cotton farmers, ginners, spinners, and weavers to transform raw cotton into handwoven products. The aspiration is that the Kala Cotton Initiative will eventually stand as an exemplar for other communities to emulate.