Madhya Pradesh - Chanderi Weave
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 1 min read
The Chanderi fabric has a rich tradition of being woven into sarees, historically favoured by royal families for special occasions. Today, it is also used to create other garments like salwar-kameez and dresses. Known for its worldwide fame, Chanderi sarees stand out due to their delicate floral motifs and sheer quality. The fabric's unique transparency and shine are achieved through a specific yarn technique, but this also makes it fragile.
Historically, Chanderi sarees were cherished by royalty and nobility, like those in Gwalior, Baroda, and Nagpur. The fabric's history dates back to the 13th century, with Kosthi weavers migrating to Chanderi and perfecting the craft. Even Maratha rulers' distinctive turbans were woven from Chanderi fabric. The art flourished under royal patronage and reached its peak during the Mughal era.
Chanderi sarees use silk for the warp and fine cotton for the weft, resulting in a high-quality product. The fabric is adorned with intricate Zari work, often featuring paisley and floral motifs. Over time, subtle hues and natural dyes were incorporated, though modern chemical dyes have expanded the colour range. Challenges faced by Chanderi weavers include harsh working conditions, lack of electricity, and the struggle to make ends meet due to insufficient awareness of the craftsmanship's complexity.
The Chanderi fabric's significance has led to its protection through Geographical Indication (GI), and various government bodies support the weavers to ensure the survival and prosperity of this revered tradition.