Maharashtra - Karvath Kathi Sari Weaving
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 2 min read
The traditional Karvat Kathi sarees and fabrics hailing from Maharashtra have their origins in the Vidarbha region of the state. This particular style has become an integral part of the local culture and sustenance. The production of Karvat Kathi sarees involves the utilisation of Tassar cocoon silk, a material highly esteemed for its quality and colour, cultivated exclusively in the Bhandara region due to its unique environmental conditions.
The crafting process of the Tassar Karvat Kathi Saree employs a distinctive weaving technique using three shuttles. Cotton yarn is used for the border, while the body is woven with pure Tussar hand reeled silk. The sarees are known for their intricate temple designs along the borders, setting them apart from other weaving styles. The process of creating Karvat Kathi sarees commences with the pre-weaving phase. Reeled fibres are transformed into yarn using a charka. These yarns are then wound onto pirns, with separate pirns for the silk threads used in the side borders and dyed cotton yarn for the body. These pirns are integrated into a warping machine, which establishes the length of the warp based on the product's requirements. The threads pass through a condensing dent and are wound onto the weaver's beam. After warping, the warp beam yarns are linked to the remaining threads from the previous weave.
Modern frame looms are preferred over traditional pit looms for weaving Karvat Kathi sarees. These newer metal-framed looms offer improved comfort and ease of movement for artisans. The intricate Karvat pattern, a result of years of artisanal practice and skill, is created through the interlocking of border weft yarns with body weft yarns using a three-shuttle weaving technique. After weaving the borders and body, the artisan embellishes the pallu portion with manual designs. Notably, the Karvat Kathi style encompasses detailed specifications for each design element, including colour combinations, pattern sizes, and shapes. Various design names, such as Rui Phool, Karan Phool, Dholkar Kinar Jai Phool, Wet Phool, and Ambapatti, add to the local distinctiveness of the style.