Odisha- Khandua Weave
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 1 min read
Khandua, also referred to as Maniabandi or Kataki, is a traditional ikat saree with intricate designs, originating from Odisha. It is typically worn by women during weddings, and a special type is also worn by the deity Jagannath. These garments often feature verses from the Gita Govinda.
The term "Khandua" in Odia signifies the lower body cloth. A specific type called Kenduli Khandua, measuring 12 feet with 2 hand-length sections known as "kani," is offered to Jagannath with stanzas and illustrations from the Gita Govinda. The names Kataki and Maniabandhi are derived from the place of origin, Maniabandha in Cuttack district.
Weaver communities from Maniabandha and Nuapatana in Cuttack are known for traditionally crafting this kind of textile. Historical accounts reveal that during the reign of Gajapatis, these sarees were created and presented at the Jagannath Temple. Notably, Nilakantha Deva, the king of Bada Khemundi, was gifted a unique khandua sari made from a single piece of khandua silk known as "caukandika."
The characteristic colour of Khandua is typically red or orange, naturally derived from the sal tree's shorea robusta. The design motifs often incorporate an auspicious elephant representing Buddha, surrounded by trailing vines with peacocks, a multi-petaled flower, the distinctive Orissan creature called Nabagunjara, and a deula kumbha. The elephant motifs in Khandua from Nuapatana differ from those found in Sambalpuri sarees or other ikat textiles from various parts of Odisha. Khandua features plain borders, setting it apart from the bordered motifs seen in other Odishan ikat textiles.