Rajasthan - Pattu Weaving
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 2 min read
Pattu comes from the Meghwal community in Rajasthan. Once home to over 25 artisan families, the settlement now houses only a few, as the mudbrick houses, numbering about 10, gradually crumble away.Within this community, the people cultivate crops like jowar and bajra for sustenance and trade among fellow weavers, establishing a localised and sustainable way of life. Alongside farming, they master the art of weaving Pattu. Rooted in history with an undefined origin, Pattu crafting involves intricate weaving, resulting in captivating geometric patterns. The term "Pattu" is derived from the regional word "patti," meaning thin strips of cloth.
Originally, the woven goods catered to the local community. Shawls and skirts were crafted, providing warmth during winters, while blankets and cots were draped in Pattu. As time passed, bartering emerged as weavers exchanged Pattu for rice and millet in neighbouring villages.
Traditionally, wool was obtained from sheep using "Ustra" razors, and this raw wool was then hand-spun by the community's women in their homes. As times evolved, the sourcing shifted to Bikaner, relying on cotton and wool yarn. After procuring the yarn, local dyers employed various dyes, inducing vibrant colours through vat, sulphur, naphthol (for cotton), and acid dyes (for wool). Over time, these hues, including bold reds, vivid pinks, and fresh oranges, revitalised the once-muted colour palette.
At the heart of the artisan's work lies the "khaddi," a pit loom traditionally employed for weaving Pattu. This loom, positioned at the back of the workspace, is where the weaver's creativity takes shape. Utilising a twill weave technique and intricate ornamentation, weavers from Karwa produce diverse shawls such as malani and bhojsari pattu. The weaving process involves horizontal borders and thin lines of weft-dominant weaves, with small motifs achieved by manually selecting warp yarns.
One unique feature of Pattu weaving is the "extra weft" technique for borders, resembling kashida embroidery. This technique sets Pattu apart from other woven textiles. Inspired by the local landscapes, motifs like fish, huts, wasps, triangular shades, stripes, birds, and trees come to life through geometric patterns.
In the land of Karwa, weavers labour to preserve their craft's value and their skills' significance. Amidst a world racing toward the future, it's the craft that allows a moment's respite. The weavers not only intertwine threads but also weave the fabric of an inseparable society. Despite the sombre present, the people of Karwa hold onto their passion for Pattu, a testament to their dedication to preserving beauty and grace in a world that sometimes values efficiency over humanity.