Satish Reddy
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 27, 2023
- 3 min read
Over the past ten years, craft mentor Satish Reddy has been persuading artisans to rediscover their craft. In 2012, while working with Khamir, a craft revival organisation in Kachchh, he was tasked with creating a white paper on kala cotton. He points out that although Kala cotton is now widely recognized, its value chain had deteriorated back then due to the dominance of mill cotton. This led to weavers abandoning their craft in favour of jobs in ATMs or factories. Reddy cites an example of a weaver who transitioned to a security guard job, earning ₹9000, whereas he struggled to make ₹3000 from weaving.
Reddy, now 38, reflects on his journey from being raised in a family of farmers in Madanapalle, Andhra Pradesh, to moving to the sun-drenched region of Kachchh. With a background in mechanical engineering, he had worked as a systems analyst and statistician at companies like Infosys and Accenture before making a career switch. At that time, the concept of craft was foreign to him; he had never even laid eyes on a loom. by Hindustan Times
In the ensuing decade, Reddy immersed himself in the world of craft, learning from international textile and product designers like Charles Galatis and Simon Marks. He took on the role of a talent scout, traversing Kachchh to connect with artisans. This experience provided him with a solid foundation in understanding both craft and design, akin to an intensive design course learned on the job. During this period, Reddy began to ponder on how to expand the boundaries and potentials of craft.
During his field expeditions, Reddy observed a receptive attitude among the weavers. As a result, Khamir entrusted him with the responsibility of establishing the complete value chain, encompassing yarn production, dyeing, and weaving. Within a year, around 30 weavers were dedicated to working with kala cotton full-time. Esteemed designer brands such as Péro, Injiri, and 11.11 were also on the lookout for a fresh material narrative.
Teaming up with Kirit Dave from Shrujan, a craft organisation in Bhujodi, Reddy founded Sanchari to collaboratively generate innovative concepts with artisans. Reddy's approach to collaboration is truly enlightening. He acknowledges that artisans recognize his non-privileged background, allowing him to connect with their vulnerabilities and challenges. He believes that artisans possess a remarkable intuition; while they understand the reasons behind their creative choices, they might struggle to express them verbally. Thus, Reddy began to pick up on nonverbal cues.
by Voice of Fashion
A prime illustration is showcased through the mochi embroidery executed by the Kasam siblings. In the initial stages, they harboured intense resentment, feeling disillusioned by the world's actions. During their initial encounter, they boldly stated, "We have no intention of ever touching a needle again." However, with persistent visits, their defences gradually softened, leading to the establishment of trust.
Miya and Zuma Kasam Adam Sangar, two brothers specialising in mochi embroidery from Kutch, gained acclaim for adorning garments worn by actress Emma Watson in the 2018 release of Beauty and the Beast. Despite the Academy Award nomination for costume design garnered by the film, it paradoxically cast a detrimental impact on their craft. Reddy explains that the misconception arose that they had raised their prices following the film's success, but in reality, their pricing has remained unchanged for approximately six years. The brothers had abandoned their craft entirely, as it seemed unappreciated. Satish Reddy, an advocate of craft intervention, hands over a magnifying glass to examine their fabric swatches more closely, emphasising that the intricate detailing within the swatches justifies the pricing.
The artwork of the Kasam brothers is featured in "Kachchh Born Again: Stories from Old Craft and New Design," an exhibition curated by Reddy, currently on display at 47-A, tucked within Mumbai's vibrant Girgaum neighbourhood. Within a 4x4-inch piece of fabric, the Kasam brothers have ingeniously fashioned an exquisite floral border adorned with myriad minute embroidered elements. Having forsaken their craft four years prior, this fragment represents the inaugural creation stemming from their revival as artisans.
Having dedicated nearly a decade to working in Kutch, Reddy, formerly affiliated with the crafts organisation Khamir, now spearheads a crafts intervention initiative called Sanchari. The exhibition is the culmination of three years of collaborative endeavours involving 12 artisans from the region, infusing their age-old crafts with innovative design interventions. "Many of these skilled craftsmen lacked the motivation to carry forward their generational legacies. Incentives were required, which prompted us to introduce these design interventions," Reddy elucidates.