Sikkim - Lepcha Weave
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 1 min read
Lepcha weaves, known as 'thara', are crafted using vertical looms with a backstrap, resulting in narrow-width looms. These tharas are adorned with traditional designs in various colours and find use in creating a diverse array of items such as bedspreads, bags, belts, curtains, cushion covers, table mats, tray cloths, and of course, their traditional attire.
Lepcha women engage in the weaving process using the traditional back-strap loin-looms, a practice that enhances the fabric's quality. This vertical frame loom, equipped with a back strap, is a local craft in Sikkim. It's typically fashioned from bamboo or various types of available wood. The loin loom accommodates an extensive range of weaving patterns, and the versatility it offers is boundless. The fabric produced through this method serves as material for women's traditional coats. Cotton yarn forms the foundational material, while woollen yarn is employed for coat motifs. The raw materials primarily include cotton for garments and sheep wool for blankets. The Lepcha people rear their own sheep for wool, supplemented by purchases from local traders. The yarn undergoes a dyeing process and is dried for about a week before being woven on the loom. The dyeing employs both vegetable dyes and synthetic colours, with shades like white, black, red, yellow, and green being prevalent. Handloom products span from simple to intricate patterns.
Traditionally, sheep wool was the go-to material, but now, with the involvement of the Directorate of Handlooms and Handicrafts, cotton and acrylic materials are also utilised. This expansion in material options allows for more captivating colour combinations and designs to be created, making contemporary Lepcha weaving all the more attractive.