Swaminathan Vaithilingam & Krishna Prasad
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 26, 2023
- 3 min read
Nutrient-depleted fields and the alarming rates of farmer suicides, especially in the cotton-growing regions of the country, reveal an agricultural approach that has often neglected the well-being of both the land and the laborers.
The repercussions of India's cotton supply chain history extend far beyond its farms. The Tamil Nadu Alliance, a coalition of over 100 grassroots organisations from the southern Indian state, has recently called upon the fashion industry to address exploitation in its textile mills, particularly concerning young girls and women.
The global competition within the fashion industry has led to a relentless pursuit of lower costs for cotton, devaluing the labour involved in its production and pushing textile mills to prioritise ever-reducing production expenses. This narrative underscores an industry that has overlooked the people involved at every stage of its supply chain, allowing brands to evade accountability. Photo: Courtesy Dibyangshu Sarkar/AFP/Getty Images.
Prasad embarked on a ten-year journey to rejuvenate Indian cotton alongside the farmers of Sahaja Samrudha. This endeavour began in the library of the Central Institute for Cotton Research in Nagpur. There, he delved into the origins of the fibre, not only its cultivation but also the soil, seeds, and historical influences that have shaped the cotton used in today's clothing. These decisions have marginalised the six million smallholder farmers who cultivate it.
Speaking about the climate-resilient desi cotton, Prasad emphasises its significance: "Indian cotton is the sole answer capable of thriving in harsh climates. Consider where desi cotton grows in the Kutch region of Gujarat—hot and with saline soil, yet it flourishes."
Reviving these plants presents challenges, involving sourcing the seeds and convincing farmers to cultivate them. Early in their endeavour, Prasad and Sahaja Samrudha collaborated with different farming organisations, receiving desi seeds from various local regions. The responsibility for their cultivation fell to Nagappa Nimbegondi, an organic enthusiast from Makari village, Karnataka. Assisted by scientist and seed breeder Dr. Jayaprakesh Nidagundi, they meticulously nurtured 23 varieties, such as Bengal Desi, Comilla, Karunganni, Waghad, Punduru, Jayadhar, and more, multiplying and sharing the seeds with local farmers.
Photo: Courtesy Sam Panthaky/AFP/Getty Images.
Collaborating with Sahaja Samrudha, Swaminathan Vaithilingam, a biotechnologist turned agriculturist, played a pivotal role in sourcing native seeds. Over five years, he traversed India to collect and identify different desi cotton varieties.
Vaithilingam's journey involved dismantling the prevailing system to establish an alternative. He reflects, "I began unlearning my academic and book knowledge, and gradually re-learned from the land itself, not just the laboratory." This shift led to exploring indigenous paddy varieties, millet, maize, and ultimately cotton.
As small groups of farmers embraced local seeds, challenges emerged regarding how to utilise their harvests. Desi cotton's unique characteristics challenge the conventional industrial textile supply chain. Current technology struggles with its coarser material, and its traditionally hand-spun fibres are incompatible with commercial spinning machines.
While desi cotton has found a market in medical and surgical applications, the delicate hand-spun and hand-woven muslin of the past has waned due to industrialization. However, weavers crafting khadi—the hand-woven cotton synonymous with India's resistance to British rule—remain the final link.
Vaithilingam founded KASKOM to produce fabrics and garments from Karungali cotton. He explored traditional khadi weaving institutes across India to find ways to process the cotton. Collaboration with the South Indian Textile Research Association (SITRA) enabled ginning and spinning using a "third-generation mill," offering adjustable settings for slower processing. This approach successfully created rovings, long fibre bundles spun by hand.
Gandhigram Khadi & VIPC Trust in Dindigul completed the yarn using an ambar charkha, a modern version of the traditional spinning wheel. The resulting fabrics include organic dhotis, shawls, and even knitted polo shirts from Karunganni cotton yarn.
Throughout the years, Prasad's collaboration with Sahaja Samrudha aimed not only to preserve the gene pool of indigenous species but also to advocate at the grassroots level. The Desi Cotton Growers Association was established to distribute seeds among farmers, accompanied by posters encouraging local cultivation and sharing research internationally.
Vaithilingam's early insights emphasised learning from the land, not the laboratory. Indigenous cotton plants reinforce the crucial lesson: past mistakes must not be repeated. Empowerment should remain with the farmers who possess unparalleled knowledge of the Earth.
Reviving desi fibres necessitates a departure from colonial and capitalistic practices that exploit people and natural resources. Embracing the locals' wisdom from the regions where these plants naturally thrive offers a path toward sustainable practices rooted in community-driven principles.