Tamil Nadu - Kandagi Weave
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 2 min read
Tamil Nadu, a land rich in fabrics and weaving traditions, is home to various weaving hubs, with Chettinad standing out for its vibrant culture, grand architecture, and handloom weaves. The renowned Kandangi sarees, a 250-year-old tradition, were popularised by the affluent Nagarathar community and carry intriguing stories within their intricate designs. These exquisite drapes are crafted by a weaving community, primarily from the Saurashtra region, residing in and around Karaikudi. Over 200 weavers in this area continue to preserve the legacy of Chettinad handloom, a craft that has earned a Geographical Indication (GI) tag from the Indian government.
Chettinad weaves are distinct for their bold colour contrasts and large borders covering a significant portion of the saree. Traditionally, these earthy tones were derived from natural dyes, such as brick red, mustard, and black, sourced from Indian madder and turmeric. The design language reflects clean lines, symmetry inspired by local architecture, and intricate depictions of flora, fauna, and mythology. The motifs range from bold checks, stripes, vibrant flowers to lively wildlife, each carrying its own captivating narrative.
The Kandangi sarees are skillfully woven using silk or cotton on frame looms and pit/fly shuttles. Artisans from Nelakotta create a specialised needle frame or pannai using carefully selected and spliced bamboo sticks, ensuring the right level of tenderness. These earth-toned sarees are cherished by local women and those across the state for their absorbent and durable nature, well-suited to the humid climate of southern India. Silk variants are reserved for special occasions, while cotton ones are chosen for everyday wear. In the past, a zero-waste culture thrived, with old sarees repurposed into daily wear, pouches, and other items.
The traditional Chettinad draping style was distinctive, draped without a blouse, and with pleats forming at the back. The saree's height was shorter than today's norm, worn above the ankle. Consequently, Chettinad sarees were crafted to be thick and robust.
At present, only three weaving groups remain out of the initial fifty that were established. To address this concerning decline in the community's representation, the government is actively committed to intervention. The Ministry of Textiles has expressed a strong commitment to supporting the improvement of the weaver community. A significant initial step in this endeavour involves providing them with a supply of silk threads.
Over the years, the design of the saree has evolved to align with changing lifestyles. The contemporary version still retains many characteristics of the original, yet it has been appropriately adapted to meet the requirements of both current weavers and users. Both silk and cotton serve as base fabrics today, featuring the distinctive Kandangi borders seamlessly incorporated with embroidery designs and vibrant patterns. The thread count has also been heightened to enhance the texture of the final product. Weavers now incorporate synthetic fabrics and utilise machines to align with emerging trends and meet the heightened demand.