Uttar Pradesh - Kimkhwab
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 2 min read
The term "Kimkhwab" finds its origin in Persian, translating to "a small dream," and true to its name, it embodies the essence of a dreamlike fabric. Once favoured by the Royal Mughals for its opulent luxury, it also captured the admiration of the British and found favour among prominent families of the era.
Kimkhwab is an opulent variety of brocade embellished so lavishly with "zari" or gold embroidery that the underlying silk surface is scarcely visible.
This style of fabric was brought to Benaras in India from Tibet in China with the intention of producing more affordable imitations of the Chinese jacquard, which predominantly featured patterns inspired by Buddhism. Over time, these designs evolved to incorporate elements distinct to the Indian subcontinent, heavily influenced by Islamic art due to the prevailing Mughal influence. The designs often revolved around nature-inspired elements like roots, trees, vines, flowers, pinecones, rosettes, stylized poppies, peacocks, and small birds.
The creation of Kimkhwab involves an intricate process demanding great skill. It is broadly categorised based on the amount of gold and silver thread used to craft the brocade. Some versions use only these precious metals, with the pattern being formed from silver thread and the background adorned with gold thread—a style known as "Tashi Kimkhwab." Others incorporate coloured silk threads to enhance the metallic components, while some rely primarily on coloured silk thread, utilising gold and silver sparingly.
The regal allure of Kimkhwab emerges from the varied zari embroidery techniques that envelop the multi-layered warp brocade. The number of warp layers varies across styles, sometimes reaching as high as seven layers within a single fabric. This aspect aids in categorising Kimkhwab based on quality. For instance, if three layers of thread are employed, it is referred to as "Tipara." Similarly, a four-layered variant is known as "Chaupara," while a seven-layered one is termed "Satpara." The weft thread introduced to create the design can consist of gold, silver, coloured silk thread, or a blend of all three.
During the Mughal period and the British Raj, Kimkhwab held great significance as an export commodity, with production centres limited to just four locations in India: Benaras, Aurangabad, Surat, and Ahmedabad. Presently, Benaras remains the sole producer, though South India is gradually emerging as a burgeoning hub for its production. It's a popular choice for bridal or special occasion attire. Due to its grandeur, it was also regarded as a fabric befitting the divine, frequently adorning panels within temples.