West Bengal - Jamdani Weave
- Nidhi Shegokar
- Aug 28, 2023
- 1 min read
Jamdani, a lightweight and translucent cotton brocade featuring floral patterns, likely derived its name from the Persian words "jama" meaning robe or garment, and "dan" meaning container. It originated from the Dhaka muslin industry, with its weaving techniques dating back to ancient times, mentioned even in texts like Megasthenes' writings and the Arthashastra around 300 BCE.
Jamdani weaving developed during the reign of Muhammad bin Tughlaq, with Persian craftsmen's influence. The Mughals further enhanced the fabric's quality, especially for Muslim men who couldn't wear silk due to religious rules. Hindu and Muslim weavers played distinct roles in its creation.
The weaving technique spread geographically, leading to variations like Uppada jamdani and Tangail jamdani. It involves fine cotton yarn woven by hand, with patterns inserted through extra-weft weaving using shuttles or needles. Modern versions include materials like nylon and silk blends.
Both men and women partake in the laborious pre-weaving process. A jacquard loom with punch cards allows intricate designs. A key tool called "kandi" aids in weaving the patterns, with mul mul jamdani even requiring three weavers.
The fabric incorporates a wide range of colours and patterns, such as butidar (scattered floral designs), jhalar (network of patterns), and terchi (linear diagonals). Jamdani's muslin industry faced challenges due to factors like British colonisation, partition, and cheap British-made fabrics. Despite this, it survived and thrived, even gaining UNESCO recognition as an Intangible Cultural Heritage.
Today, the art of jamdani weaving continues in regions like West Bengal and Bangladesh, with master weavers preserving traditional techniques. The fabric's presence can be found in museums globally.