Kala Cotton
Kala cotton, an organic variety of cotton, is cultivated in the Kutch region of the Bhuj district in Gujarat. Its growth is entirely reliant on rainfall, eliminating the need for excessive water supply. The annual average rainfall of 300 - 400 mm in Kutch suffices for Kala cotton cultivation. The Kala Cotton plant exhibits remarkable resilience to varying weather conditions, maintaining its quality even during adverse situations. In ecological terms, Kala cotton holds notable advantages over other types of cotton.
Traditional cotton-growing regions in Kutch lack extensive irrigation systems and experience limited rainfall. Consequently, only Gossypium herbaceum, the old short-staple variety, thrives there. It stands as one of the most water-efficient cotton types globally, thriving solely on rainwater without the need for irrigation. Additionally, owing to its robust old-world nature, it avoids the necessity for fertilisers or pesticides, rendering it an organic and nearly carbon-neutral cotton variety.
Due to the dominance of the modern cotton industry, much of the expertise in Kala cotton processing has waned. Though few artisans remain skilled in operating the old hand-looms required, there is a promising revival underway. Some families are embracing traditional cotton cultivation methods. Slubbed takes pride in contributing to the renaissance of this sensible and sustainable cotton variety, which offers employment opportunities spanning farmers, ginners, spinners, and weavers, and culminates in a remarkably beautiful product.
The significance of Kala cotton today lies in its threefold potential:
-
It supports the livelihoods of farmers and artisans. Due to its self-sufficiency and rain-fed nature, Kala cotton serves as a viable and organic crop choice for farmers, eliminating the need for pesticides and fertilisers.
-
Its intrinsic qualities and origins hold the power to enhance India's textile legacy, spanning across historical and contemporary contexts.
-
Kala cotton serves as a model for various strains of desi cotton found in different regions of the country, where initial steps towards their revival are already underway.
Kala cotton today
Since the 2001 earthquake, Kachchh has undergone swift industrialization. While the influence of large-scale industries comes with certain advantages, it has negatively impacted cultural livelihoods, casting an uncertain shadow over their sustainability. The count of weavers in Kachchh has dwindled from over 2000 in the mid-1990s to a mere 600-700 at present. Small-scale weavers encounter challenges in purchasing raw materials in bulk and struggle the most to adapt to evolving market dynamics. Establishing a local value chain was imperative to shield these weavers from external market fluctuations. This necessitated a locally grown, eco-friendly raw material with the potential for social value creation.
Photo by Stitch by stitch
Kala Cotton stands out as one of the few remaining genetically pure cotton varieties in India and one of the solitary instances of unadulterated old-world cotton being cultivated on a substantial scale today. It yields a robust, coarse, and stretchable fibre often employed in denim production. However, its limited suitability for producing high-quality textiles arises from its short staple length, resulting in fewer twists per inch of yarn. Consequently, its utilisation in mainstream markets has considerably waned over time.
